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| [Total Views: 7944 | Total Replies: 4 | Thread Id: 324] |
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 Spyder Z 15 
6'8"
Posts: 347
Registered: 10/13/2005
Gender: Male
Location: Riverside, CA, 92518
State Flag:  California
Favorite Car: '93 Slicktop Z32
Mood: Friggin excellent
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 posted on 7/2/2006 at 22:10 |
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Z32 POP charger install
Well here we go again. Another write-up by yours truely.  Sit back and
relax kids cause here it goes. 
JWT POP Charger Install for 90-96 300ZX N/A and TT
Tools needed- Rachet, 10mm socket, 6" socket extension, paperclip or small flathead screwdriver, phillips screwdriver, regular 10mm wrench or dremel,
and some patience if you have gorilla hands like me.
Skill Level from a scale of 1-10 with 1 being the easiest- 1.5 - 2
First of all thanks to Mitch from AMZ Performance for getting this part to me
within a week. I've always had great service from Mitch and I will definitely buy from him in the future.
*Please do not pay attention to my dirty car for I haven't had a chance to wash it and will wash it within the next 3
days.*
Pre-step - Unhook your battery because when you are done and rehook it back up it will reset your ECU and cause your car to NOT run like crap. I
learned this after I was having troubles with my POP charger in my old 2+0.
STEP-1
Use your 10mm socket and remove the 4 bolts circled in red below. *Note that I only have the 2 outer bolts which still hold the panel in place and
won't be a problem at all. You may only have these 2 bolts also, but most probably have all 4.*
STEP-2
Gently lift up on the center panel and pull towards the MyISAM gently. You might have to give it a little force, but it should come off fairly easily.
Now you can see your stock airbox in all of its filthy glory. Mine actually had a cigarette butt next to the MAF. I <3 previous owners and car
thieves.
STEP-3
Using a paperclip or a very small flat head screwdriver, gently pry the clip. But be carefull not to lose it cause you will need to reinstall it.
After the clip has been moved pull the connector off and place it out of the way.
STEP-4
Next use your rachet with 10mm socket and 6" extension and remove these 2 bolts that are on both sides. To get to the bolts a little easier loosen
the clamp around the top of the MAF with the phillips and push it all the way to one side.
STEP-5
Make sure that the clamp on top of the MAF is loosened almost to the point that it will come off. Then use your brute force and push the intake
T-piping towards the MyISAM and pull the top of the MAF out and it should now look like this. *Once again I hate previous owners and car thieves.*
Use the phillips screwdriver And take out the 2 bolts circled in the pic below near the top of the air box and the one bolt at the bottom of the air
box. Now flip the 2 switches on both sides of the airbox and pull the top off. I did this for the dremel method for step 6
STEP-6
Use your 10mm socket to remove the top bolt on each side of the air box. And for the 2nd part of this step you have 2 options for the other part. #1
is use an extension w/ a 10mm socket or a 10mm crescent wrench and try to get the 2nd 10mm nut from the bottom of the air box that is a total pain to
get to if you still have the air box splash shield on. On my old 2+0 N/A I didn't have the air box splash shield on so getting these bolts were a
cinch.
Option #2 is getting your dremel out and grindin off the rivets that are on the inside of the stock air box marked with red circles. I went this route
since I had no intention of keeping the stock air box for any reason.
STEP-7
There are 2 bolts on each side holding the air box to the splash shield. Use a phillips screwdriver to take these out.
STEP-8 * And my personal favorite*
Yank out that stock air box and chuck it as far as you can cause that restrictive piece of junk is history.
STEP-9
Connect the MAF to the POP charger with the bolts that are already in the POP charger and tighten them. Now put the POP charger on temporarily in the
stock T-pipe and wiggle the POP charger from side to side scuffing the splash shield so you can see where to cut the hole. Now pull the POP charger
out.
You want to have the edge of the POP charger close to the edge of the splash shield, but not hanging over.
Then you cut a small hole for the bolt on top of the POP charger to rest on.
STEP-10 *The final step*
Put the POP charger back into the T-piping and the bolt into the hole you just cut. Make sure it's in the position you want it in and tighten the
clamp that holds it in the T-pipe. Plug the connector back into the MAF and use the small screwdriver or paperclip to put the clip back on the
connector. Put the cable back onto the battery.
Reinstall the center panel the same way you took it off.
Now start your car, reprogram your radio stations and enjoy your MyISAM breathing easier.
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300zdrift99
JDM Muscle!
Posts: 269
Registered: 10/13/2005
Location: Payson, Arizona 85541
State Flag:  Arizona
Favorite Car: 1990 Z32 NA 2+2
Mood: Homicidal
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![[*]](./images/xpsilver/default_icon.gif) posted on 7/2/2006 at 23:41 |
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- Z32 POP charger install
Nice write-up, Dustin!
Zeto! Zeto!
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bbugarin2
Empire Z
Posts: 185
Registered: 10/13/2005
Gender: Male
Location: Pomona, CA 91767
State Flag: California
Favorite Car: 1990 Cherry Red TT
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| posted on 7/8/2006 at 23:34 |
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- Z32 POP charger install
Very nice. I don't remember having to grind anythng. Did you have a problem taking the stock airbox?
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 jmallard
[Admin]
Posts: 1291
Registered: 10/9/2005
Location: Victorville, CA 92395
State Flag: California
Favorite Car: 1990 300ZX TT
Mood: Always Confused
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| posted on 7/9/2006 at 07:33 |
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Z32 POP charger install
 /\ Ditto /\
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Spyder Z 15
6'8"
Posts: 347
Registered: 10/13/2005
Gender: Male
Location: Riverside, CA, 92518
State Flag: California
Favorite Car: '93 Slicktop Z32
Mood: Friggin excellent
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| posted on 7/9/2006 at 08:25 |
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- Z32 POP charger install
I was having a hard time getting those 2 bottom bolts that were attached to the airbox so I grounded off the riverts that were on the inside of the
airbox. I probably could've gotten them with a open ended regular wrench, but mine seems to have come up missing.
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